| Can I save money making a dress (or
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| | are simple with minor gathers and that
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| having it made) over purchasing one
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| | follow the natural shoulder line are
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| retail?
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| | ideal. Wear simple bodices with accents
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| It depends. If you are trying to copy an
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| | kept to a minimum and with open necklines
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| expensive designer gown, you will most
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| | that are not too wide or low. Full skirts
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| likely save quite a bit. If you are
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| | or straight gowns with full trains will
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| comparing an imported factory gown made
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| | create the appearance of more curves on
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| in Asia, you may not. It will also depend
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| | the lower body. Also look for gowns with
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| on whether you are paying a seamstress or
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| | bustles, bows and other adornments. Avoid
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| sewing it on your own. If you sew it
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| | heavy beading, oversized sleeves with
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| yourself, you can save money. If you are
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| | elaborate detailing, and empire styles
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| paying a qualified dressmaker, it might
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| | since they will emphasize top heaviness
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| cost a little more.
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| | HOURGLASS - When your body is curvaceous.
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| However, there are several other
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| | Your bust and hip measurements are very
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| important factors to consider in addition
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| | close but your waist is noticeably
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| to price.
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| | smaller. Often considered the ideal
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| First is Style. If you are the type who
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| | figure.
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| does not want to look like the hundreds
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| | Look for basque waistlines or dropped
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| of other brides in the same ready-to-wear
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| | waistlines as they will show waist
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| gown, then you may consider making or
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| | definition. Look for simple classic lines
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| having a dress made. Sewing a dress
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| | such as a fitted princess or sheath gown.
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| offers you the luxury of designing
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| | Off-the-shoulder gowns and open necklines
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| details to your exact liking. You can
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| | are great. Avoid heavy bodice and skirt
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| select the perfect shaped rose; whether a
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| | detailing as they can make you appear
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| bud or fully open bloom; the perfect
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| | heavier. Also avoid high necklines and
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| placement of a lace applique or trim to
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| | empire styling which will hide your best
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| accent or camouflage. Making a gown
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| | features.
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| creates a one-of-a-kind dress. Even
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| | ere are some tips to use in making fabric
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| though you may be using a commercial
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| | selection.
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| pattern, individual choice in lace,
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| | Whenever possible, buy fabric ROT, that
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| fabric and detailing indeed create a
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| | means rolled on a tube. If the fabric you
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| personal gown for you.
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| | want only comes double and rolled on a
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| Second is fit. Many brides purchase an
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| | bolt, make sure the crease will iron out
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| expensive ready made designer gown not
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| | easily.
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| realizing they will then have to spend
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| | Natural fibers will sew and fit like no
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| another small fortune…sometimes
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| | other fiber. Silk is my
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| hundreds of dollars… in alterations
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| | favorite. They mold to the body to help
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| just to get that gown to fit their
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| | with that perfect fit. Silk is not always
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| figure. A custom gown tailored for your
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| | affordable so a good quality polyester is
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| individual figure always gives you a fit
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| | a nice alternative.
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| that is unequaled in a ready-to-wear
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| | Buy a polyester not an acetate. In my
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| gown. The proper fitting takes place in
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| | opinion, there is no comparison between
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| the original pattern work…something you
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| | poly satin, taffeta, crepe, etc. or
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| can never achieve with a mass produced
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| | acetate satin, taffeta, crepe, etc. Years
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| size.
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| | ago acetate was very popular especially
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| Third is Quality. This is an area where
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| | with gown manufacturers because it is
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| there is no comparison. The gowns sewn in
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| | cheap. Today very few gown manufacturers
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| Asian factories are simply not made to
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| | still use it but the major fabric chains
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| last. If you are looking for an heirloom
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| | still continue to carry it heavily.
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| quality gown that can be cherished for
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| | Here are a few reasons why I would never
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| generations, have it made by a qualified
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| | spend the time to make a quality gown
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| dressmaker.
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| | with a cheap acetate. It’s a nightmare
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| Your wedding gown is a dress that will be
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| | to sew on. If you get machine oil or
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| worn once but cherished for a lifetime.
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| | anything on the fabric, it will have to
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| To me the choice is simple.
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| | be dry-cleaned. It cannot be spotted
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| First figure out what looks good on your
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| | without leaving a watermark. It does not
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| body. How many times have you fallen in
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| | press well and if pressed wrong, the
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| love with a picture in an ad or with a
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| | crease is permanent. It does not mold to
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| dress on a hanger, to then try it on and
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| | the body and you will never get a wrinkle
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| find out it is a disaster. The same holds
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| | free fit. It yellows quickly with age and
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| true with a wedding gown. Remember, when
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| | once dry-cleaned, it loses any body it
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| the going get tough, the tough go
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| | many have had. (Are you getting the idea
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| shopping! Try many styles on so you can
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| | that I don’t like acetate?) I consider
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| really see the good and the bad.
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| | it a disposable fabric. Many people buy
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| To give you at least some direction,
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| | it because it is cheap but don’t let
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| let’s discuss some general style rules
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| | price alone fool you. Make sure if you
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| for different figures. Do keep in mind
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| | are price shopping that you are comparing
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| that these are general rules. There are
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| | apples with apples. Just because both
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| always exceptions and personal taste may
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| | fabrics are a delustered satin does not
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| vary. Use the figure style guidelines
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| | mean they are the same. Check fiber
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| below as a direction to start.
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| | content and avoid acetate.
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| TRIANGLE – also known as the pear
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| | Now that I have told you not to use an
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| shape, you are narrow above the waist and
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| | acetate, let me say there are a few
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| heavy below. Your bust is usually small,
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| | exceptions. Never buy any fabric that is
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| your shoulders are narrow and your waist
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| | 100% acetate but some acetate blends such
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| is defined.
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| | as rayon/acetate blends and brocades are
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| Look for gowns that have fitted bodices
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| | the general exception.
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| with full skirts as they will emphasize
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| | What should I use for lining and do I
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| the waist while de-emphasizing the hips.
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| | need to line and underline a dress?
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| Bodices with texture or accented with
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| | Many brides do not understand the
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| lace and beading will create the illusion
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| | importance of lining and underlining a
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| of a fuller upper body. Look for gowns
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| | gown. It is essential that every gown be
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| with little or no lace on the skirts and
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| | fully lined in the bodice.
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| with few gathers. Princess skirts would
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| | Depending on the weight of your fabric,
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| be ideal. Fullness in sleeves will extend
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| | you may even want to fully line the
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| your shoulder line. Jewel necklines will
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| | sleeves and skirt. Linings do not have to
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| add breadth to your upper body.
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| | be expensive. I line 99% of my garments
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| Avoid gowns with high necklines, which
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| | with a basic 100% polyester lining such
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| will make the shoulders look narrower.
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| | as pongee or coupe de ville which costs
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| Avoid silhouettes that hug the body such
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| | about $3 - $4 yd. Even silk can be lined
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| as sheaths or mermaids and avoid skirts
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| | with this to help keep the cost down. Be
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| that have extra fullness through the
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| | sure to never use acetate lining as it
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| hips, excessive gathers, bustles and bows
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| | will alter the fit and drape of your gown
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| in back.
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| | fabric.
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| RECTANGLE- Your body is long and narrow.
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| | Lining can greatly alter the color of a
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| Your shoulders and hips are very close in
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| | garment so make sure you layer the
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| size with not much of a waist. Look for
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| | fabrics you plan to use to see the
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| empire waists as they will camouflage the
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| | finished color before purchasing. Lining
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| waistline and place emphasis on the
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| | can be a great asset to help you alter
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| bodice and hemlines. Sleeves with
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| | your color slightly, however. I have
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| elaborate detailing will broaden the
| |
| | often lined ivory garments with white to
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| shoulders. Full skirts with horizontal
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| | keep the ivory lighter or winter white
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| detail are best. Use a fabric that holds
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| | silk with a darker ivory lining to
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| its shape well such as a silk dupioni or
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| | achieve a little more color. You can even
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| taffeta. Bateau necklines will widen the
| |
| | achieve a very subtle pink or peach by
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| shoulders. Avoid slim silhouettes with
| |
| | lining ivory silk with a pink lining. If
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| vertical styling such as straight gowns.
| |
| | you do plan to change your dress color
|
| INVERTED TRIANGLE - When your upper body
| |
| | with lining, however, please make sure
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| is wider than your lower body. Your
| |
| | you line every piece from bodice,
|
| shoulders are broad and your bust is full
| |
| | sleeves, and skirt, to bows and roses or
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| with slender legs and hips. Look for
| |
| | they will not match. Lining can affect
|
| gowns with an elongated bodice as they
| |
| | the color of bridesmaid’s dresses as
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| will tend to draw the eye down
| |
| | well.
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| lengthening the upper body. Sleeves that
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| |
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