| Can I save money making a dress (or having it | | | | the upper body. Sleeves that are simple with |
| made) over purchasing one retail? | | | | minor gathers and that follow the natural shoulder |
| It depends. If you are trying to copy an | | | | line are ideal. Wear simple bodices with accents |
| expensive designer gown, you will most likely | | | | kept to a minimum and with open necklines that |
| save quite a bit. If you are comparing an imported | | | | are not too wide or low. Full skirts or straight |
| factory gown made in Asia, you may not. It will | | | | gowns with full trains will create the appearance |
| also depend on whether you are paying a | | | | of more curves on the lower body. Also look for |
| seamstress or sewing it on your own. If you sew | | | | gowns with bustles, bows and other adornments. |
| it yourself, you can save money. If you are | | | | Avoid heavy beading, oversized sleeves with |
| paying a qualified dressmaker, it might cost a little | | | | elaborate detailing, and empire styles since they |
| more. | | | | will emphasize top heaviness |
| However, there are several other important | | | | HOURGLASS - When your body is curvaceous. |
| factors to consider in addition to price. | | | | Your bust and hip measurements are very close |
| First is Style. If you are the type who does not | | | | but your waist is noticeably smaller. Often |
| want to look like the hundreds of other brides in | | | | considered the ideal figure. |
| the same ready-to-wear gown, then you may | | | | Look for basque waistlines or dropped waistlines |
| consider making or having a dress made. Sewing | | | | as they will show waist definition. Look for simple |
| a dress offers you the luxury of designing details | | | | classic lines such as a fitted princess or sheath |
| to your exact liking. You can select the perfect | | | | gown. Off-the-shoulder gowns and open necklines |
| shaped rose; whether a bud or fully open bloom; | | | | are great. Avoid heavy bodice and skirt detailing |
| the perfect placement of a lace applique or trim | | | | as they can make you appear heavier. Also avoid |
| to accent or camouflage. Making a gown creates | | | | high necklines and empire styling which will hide |
| a one-of-a-kind dress. Even though you may be | | | | your best features. |
| using a commercial pattern, individual choice in | | | | ere are some tips to use in making fabric |
| lace, fabric and detailing indeed create a personal | | | | selection. |
| gown for you. | | | | Whenever possible, buy fabric ROT, that means |
| Second is fit. Many brides purchase an expensive | | | | rolled on a tube. If the fabric you want only |
| ready made designer gown not realizing they will | | | | comes double and rolled on a bolt, make sure the |
| then have to spend another small | | | | crease will iron out easily. |
| fortune…sometimes hundreds of | | | | Natural fibers will sew and fit like no other fiber. |
| dollars… in alterations just to get that | | | | Silk is my |
| gown to fit their figure. A custom gown tailored | | | | favorite. They mold to the body to help with that |
| for your individual figure always gives you a fit | | | | perfect fit. Silk is not always affordable so a good |
| that is unequaled in a ready-to-wear gown. The | | | | quality polyester is a nice alternative. |
| proper fitting takes place in the original pattern | | | | Buy a polyester not an acetate. In my opinion, |
| work…something you can never achieve | | | | there is no comparison between poly satin, |
| with a mass produced size. | | | | taffeta, crepe, etc. or acetate satin, taffeta, |
| Third is Quality. This is an area where there is no | | | | crepe, etc. Years ago acetate was very popular |
| comparison. The gowns sewn in Asian factories | | | | especially with gown manufacturers because it is |
| are simply not made to last. If you are looking for | | | | cheap. Today very few gown manufacturers still |
| an heirloom quality gown that can be cherished | | | | use it but the major fabric chains still continue to |
| for generations, have it made by a qualified | | | | carry it heavily. |
| dressmaker. | | | | Here are a few reasons why I would never |
| Your wedding gown is a dress that will be worn | | | | spend the time to make a quality gown with a |
| once but cherished for a lifetime. To me the | | | | cheap acetate. It’s a nightmare to sew |
| choice is simple. | | | | on. If you get machine oil or anything on the |
| First figure out what looks good on your body. | | | | fabric, it will have to be dry-cleaned. It cannot be |
| How many times have you fallen in love with a | | | | spotted without leaving a watermark. It does not |
| picture in an ad or with a dress on a hanger, to | | | | press well and if pressed wrong, the crease is |
| then try it on and find out it is a disaster. The | | | | permanent. It does not mold to the body and you |
| same holds true with a wedding gown. | | | | will never get a wrinkle free fit. It yellows quickly |
| Remember, when the going get tough, the tough | | | | with age and once dry-cleaned, it loses any body |
| go shopping! Try many styles on so you can | | | | it many have had. (Are you getting the idea that I |
| really see the good and the bad. | | | | don’t like acetate?) I consider it a |
| To give you at least some direction, | | | | disposable fabric. Many people buy it because it is |
| let’s discuss some general style rules | | | | cheap but don’t let price alone fool you. |
| for different figures. Do keep in mind that these | | | | Make sure if you are price shopping that you are |
| are general rules. There are always exceptions | | | | comparing apples with apples. Just because both |
| and personal taste may vary. Use the figure style | | | | fabrics are a delustered satin does not mean they |
| guidelines below as a direction to start. | | | | are the same. Check fiber content and avoid |
| TRIANGLE – also known as the pear | | | | acetate. |
| shape, you are narrow above the waist and | | | | Now that I have told you not to use an acetate, |
| heavy below. Your bust is usually small, your | | | | let me say there are a few exceptions. Never |
| shoulders are narrow and your waist is defined. | | | | buy any fabric that is 100% acetate but some |
| Look for gowns that have fitted bodices with full | | | | acetate blends such as rayon/acetate blends and |
| skirts as they will emphasize the waist while | | | | brocades are the general exception. |
| de-emphasizing the hips. Bodices with texture or | | | | What should I use for lining and do I need to line |
| accented with lace and beading will create the | | | | and underline a dress? |
| illusion of a fuller upper body. Look for gowns with | | | | Many brides do not understand the importance of |
| little or no lace on the skirts and with few gathers. | | | | lining and underlining a gown. It is essential that |
| Princess skirts would be ideal. Fullness in sleeves | | | | every gown be fully lined in the bodice. |
| will extend your shoulder line. Jewel necklines will | | | | Depending on the weight of your fabric, you may |
| add breadth to your upper body. | | | | even want to fully line the sleeves and skirt. |
| Avoid gowns with high necklines, which will make | | | | Linings do not have to be expensive. I line 99% |
| the shoulders look narrower. Avoid silhouettes | | | | of my garments with a basic 100% polyester |
| that hug the body such as sheaths or mermaids | | | | lining such as pongee or coupe de ville which costs |
| and avoid skirts that have extra fullness through | | | | about $3 - $4 yd. Even silk can be lined with this |
| the hips, excessive gathers, bustles and bows in | | | | to help keep the cost down. Be sure to never |
| back. | | | | use acetate lining as it will alter the fit and drape |
| RECTANGLE- Your body is long and narrow. Your | | | | of your gown fabric. |
| shoulders and hips are very close in size with not | | | | Lining can greatly alter the color of a garment so |
| much of a waist. Look for empire waists as they | | | | make sure you layer the fabrics you plan to use |
| will camouflage the waistline and place emphasis | | | | to see the finished color before purchasing. Lining |
| on the bodice and hemlines. Sleeves with | | | | can be a great asset to help you alter your color |
| elaborate detailing will broaden the shoulders. Full | | | | slightly, however. I have often lined ivory |
| skirts with horizontal detail are best. Use a fabric | | | | garments with white to keep the ivory lighter or |
| that holds its shape well such as a silk dupioni or | | | | winter white silk with a darker ivory lining to |
| taffeta. Bateau necklines will widen the shoulders. | | | | achieve a little more color. You can even achieve |
| Avoid slim silhouettes with vertical styling such as | | | | a very subtle pink or peach by lining ivory silk with |
| straight gowns. | | | | a pink lining. If you do plan to change your dress |
| INVERTED TRIANGLE - When your upper body is | | | | color with lining, however, please make sure you |
| wider than your lower body. Your shoulders are | | | | line every piece from bodice, sleeves, and skirt, |
| broad and your bust is full with slender legs and | | | | to bows and roses or they will not match. Lining |
| hips. Look for gowns with an elongated bodice as | | | | can affect the color of bridesmaid’s |
| they will tend to draw the eye down lengthening | | | | dresses as well. |