| Can I save money making a dress (or having it | | | | and that follow the natural shoulder line are |
| made) over purchasing one retail? | | | | ideal. Wear simple bodices with accents kept |
| | | | to a minimum and with open necklines that are |
| It depends. If you are trying to copy an | | | | not too wide or low. Full skirts or straight |
| expensive designer gown, you will most likely | | | | gowns with full trains will create the |
| save quite a bit. If you are comparing an | | | | appearance of more curves on the lower body. |
| imported factory gown made in Asia, you may | | | | Also look for gowns with bustles, bows and |
| not. It will also depend on whether you are | | | | other adornments. Avoid heavy beading, |
| paying a seamstress or sewing it on your own. | | | | oversized sleeves with elaborate detailing, |
| If you sew it yourself, you can save money. | | | | and empire styles since they will emphasize |
| If you are paying a qualified dressmaker, it | | | | top heaviness |
| might cost a little more. | | | | |
| | | | HOURGLASS - When your body is curvaceous. |
| However, there are several other important | | | | Your bust and hip measurements are very close |
| factors to consider in addition to price. | | | | but your waist is noticeably smaller. Often |
| | | | considered the ideal figure. |
| First is Style. If you are the type who does | | | | |
| not want to look like the hundreds of other | | | | Look for basque waistlines or dropped |
| brides in the same ready-to-wear gown, then | | | | waistlines as they will show waist |
| you may consider making or having a dress | | | | definition. Look for simple classic lines |
| made. Sewing a dress offers you the luxury of | | | | such as a fitted princess or sheath gown. |
| designing details to your exact liking. You | | | | Off-the-shoulder gowns and open necklines are |
| can select the perfect shaped rose; whether a | | | | great. Avoid heavy bodice and skirt detailing |
| bud or fully open bloom; the perfect | | | | as they can make you appear heavier. Also |
| placement of a lace applique or trim to | | | | avoid high necklines and empire styling which |
| accent or camouflage. Making a gown creates a | | | | will hide your best features. |
| one-of-a-kind dress. Even though you may be | | | | |
| using a commercial pattern, individual choice | | | | ere are some tips to use in making fabric |
| in lace, fabric and detailing indeed create a | | | | selection. |
| personal gown for you. | | | | |
| | | | Whenever possible, buy fabric ROT, that means |
| Second is fit. Many brides purchase an | | | | rolled on a tube. If the fabric you want only |
| expensive ready made designer gown not | | | | comes double and rolled on a bolt, make sure |
| realizing they will then have to spend | | | | the crease will iron out easily. |
| another small fortune…sometimes | | | | |
| hundreds of dollars… in alterations | | | | Natural fibers will sew and fit like no other |
| just to get that gown to fit their figure. A | | | | fiber. Silk is my |
| custom gown tailored for your individual | | | | |
| figure always gives you a fit that is | | | | favorite. They mold to the body to help with |
| unequaled in a ready-to-wear gown. The proper | | | | that perfect fit. Silk is not always |
| fitting takes place in the original pattern | | | | affordable so a good quality polyester is a |
| work…something you can never achieve | | | | nice alternative. |
| with a mass produced size. | | | | |
| | | | Buy a polyester not an acetate. In my |
| Third is Quality. This is an area where there | | | | opinion, there is no comparison between poly |
| is no comparison. The gowns sewn in Asian | | | | satin, taffeta, crepe, etc. or acetate satin, |
| factories are simply not made to last. If you | | | | taffeta, crepe, etc. Years ago acetate was |
| are looking for an heirloom quality gown that | | | | very popular especially with gown |
| can be cherished for generations, have it | | | | manufacturers because it is cheap. Today very |
| made by a qualified dressmaker. | | | | few gown manufacturers still use it but the |
| | | | major fabric chains still continue to carry |
| Your wedding gown is a dress that will be | | | | it heavily. |
| worn once but cherished for a lifetime. To me | | | | |
| the choice is simple. | | | | Here are a few reasons why I would never |
| | | | spend the time to make a quality gown with a |
| First figure out what looks good on your | | | | cheap acetate. It’s a nightmare to sew |
| body. How many times have you fallen in love | | | | on. If you get machine oil or anything on the |
| with a picture in an ad or with a dress on a | | | | fabric, it will have to be dry-cleaned. It |
| hanger, to then try it on and find out it is | | | | cannot be spotted without leaving a |
| a disaster. The same holds true with a | | | | watermark. It does not press well and if |
| wedding gown. Remember, when the going get | | | | pressed wrong, the crease is permanent. It |
| tough, the tough go shopping! Try many styles | | | | does not mold to the body and you will never |
| on so you can really see the good and the | | | | get a wrinkle free fit. It yellows quickly |
| bad. | | | | with age and once dry-cleaned, it loses any |
| | | | body it many have had. (Are you getting the |
| To give you at least some direction, | | | | idea that I don’t like acetate?) I |
| let’s discuss some general style rules | | | | consider it a disposable fabric. Many people |
| for different figures. Do keep in mind that | | | | buy it because it is cheap but don’t |
| these are general rules. There are always | | | | let price alone fool you. Make sure if you |
| exceptions and personal taste may vary. Use | | | | are price shopping that you are comparing |
| the figure style guidelines below as a | | | | apples with apples. Just because both fabrics |
| direction to start. | | | | are a delustered satin does not mean they are |
| | | | the same. Check fiber content and avoid |
| TRIANGLE – also known as the pear | | | | acetate. |
| shape, you are narrow above the waist and | | | | |
| heavy below. Your bust is usually small, your | | | | Now that I have told you not to use an |
| shoulders are narrow and your waist is | | | | acetate, let me say there are a few |
| defined. | | | | exceptions. Never buy any fabric that is 100% |
| | | | acetate but some acetate blends such as rayon |
| Look for gowns that have fitted bodices with | | | | acetate blends and brocades are the general |
| full skirts as they will emphasize the waist | | | | exception. |
| while de-emphasizing the hips. Bodices with | | | | |
| texture or accented with lace and beading | | | | What should I use for lining and do I need to |
| will create the illusion of a fuller upper | | | | line and underline a dress? |
| body. Look for gowns with little or no lace | | | | |
| on the skirts and with few gathers. Princess | | | | Many brides do not understand the importance |
| skirts would be ideal. Fullness in sleeves | | | | of lining and underlining a gown. It is |
| will extend your shoulder line. Jewel | | | | essential that every gown be fully lined in |
| necklines will add breadth to your upper | | | | the bodice. |
| body. | | | | |
| | | | Depending on the weight of your fabric, you |
| Avoid gowns with high necklines, which will | | | | may even want to fully line the sleeves and |
| make the shoulders look narrower. Avoid | | | | skirt. Linings do not have to be expensive. I |
| silhouettes that hug the body such as sheaths | | | | line 99% of my garments with a basic 100% |
| or mermaids and avoid skirts that have extra | | | | polyester lining such as pongee or coupe de |
| fullness through the hips, excessive gathers, | | | | ville which costs about $3 - $4 yd. Even silk |
| bustles and bows in back. | | | | can be lined with this to help keep the cost |
| | | | down. Be sure to never use acetate lining as |
| RECTANGLE- Your body is long and narrow. Your | | | | it will alter the fit and drape of your gown |
| shoulders and hips are very close in size | | | | fabric. |
| with not much of a waist. Look for empire | | | | |
| waists as they will camouflage the waistline | | | | Lining can greatly alter the color of a |
| and place emphasis on the bodice and | | | | garment so make sure you layer the fabrics |
| hemlines. Sleeves with elaborate detailing | | | | you plan to use to see the finished color |
| will broaden the shoulders. Full skirts with | | | | before purchasing. Lining can be a great |
| horizontal detail are best. Use a fabric that | | | | asset to help you alter your color slightly, |
| holds its shape well such as a silk dupioni | | | | however. I have often lined ivory garments |
| or taffeta. Bateau necklines will widen the | | | | with white to keep the ivory lighter or |
| shoulders. Avoid slim silhouettes with | | | | winter white silk with a darker ivory lining |
| vertical styling such as straight gowns. | | | | to achieve a little more color. You can even |
| | | | achieve a very subtle pink or peach by lining |
| INVERTED TRIANGLE - When your upper body is | | | | ivory silk with a pink lining. If you do plan |
| wider than your lower body. Your shoulders | | | | to change your dress color with lining, |
| are broad and your bust is full with slender | | | | however, please make sure you line every |
| legs and hips. Look for gowns with an | | | | piece from bodice, sleeves, and skirt, to |
| elongated bodice as they will tend to draw | | | | bows and roses or they will not match. Lining |
| the eye down lengthening the upper body. | | | | can affect the color of bridesmaid’s |
| Sleeves that are simple with minor gathers | | | | dresses as well. |