| Can I save money making a dress (or | | | | are simple with minor gathers and that |
| having it made) over purchasing one | | | | follow the natural shoulder line are |
| retail? | | | | ideal. Wear simple bodices with accents |
| It depends. If you are trying to copy an | | | | kept to a minimum and with open |
| expensive designer gown, you will most | | | | necklines that are not too wide or low. |
| likely save quite a bit. If you are | | | | Full skirts or straight gowns with full |
| comparing an imported factory gown made | | | | trains will create the appearance of |
| in Asia, you may not. It will also | | | | more curves on the lower body. Also look |
| depend on whether you are paying a | | | | for gowns with bustles, bows and other |
| seamstress or sewing it on your own. If | | | | adornments. Avoid heavy beading, |
| you sew it yourself, you can save money. | | | | oversized sleeves with elaborate |
| If you are paying a qualified | | | | detailing, and empire styles since they |
| dressmaker, it might cost a little more. | | | | will emphasize top heaviness |
| However, there are several other | | | | HOURGLASS - When your body is |
| important factors to consider in | | | | curvaceous. Your bust and hip |
| addition to price. | | | | measurements are very close but your |
| First is Style. If you are the type who | | | | waist is noticeably smaller. Often |
| does not want to look like the hundreds | | | | considered the ideal figure. |
| of other brides in the same | | | | Look for basque waistlines or dropped |
| ready-to-wear gown, then you may | | | | waistlines as they will show waist |
| consider making or having a dress made. | | | | definition. Look for simple classic |
| Sewing a dress offers you the luxury of | | | | lines such as a fitted princess or |
| designing details to your exact liking. | | | | sheath gown. Off-the-shoulder gowns and |
| You can select the perfect shaped rose; | | | | open necklines are great. Avoid heavy |
| whether a bud or fully open bloom; the | | | | bodice and skirt detailing as they can |
| perfect placement of a lace applique or | | | | make you appear heavier. Also avoid high |
| trim to accent or camouflage. Making a | | | | necklines and empire styling which will |
| gown creates a one-of-a-kind dress. Even | | | | hide your best features. |
| though you may be using a commercial | | | | ere are some tips to use in making |
| pattern, individual choice in lace, | | | | fabric selection. |
| fabric and detailing indeed create a | | | | Whenever possible, buy fabric ROT, that |
| personal gown for you. | | | | means rolled on a tube. If the fabric |
| Second is fit. Many brides purchase an | | | | you want only comes double and rolled on |
| expensive ready made designer gown not | | | | a bolt, make sure the crease will iron |
| realizing they will then have to spend | | | | out easily. |
| another small fortune…sometimes | | | | Natural fibers will sew and fit like no |
| hundreds of dollars… in alterations | | | | other fiber. Silk is my |
| just to get that gown to fit their | | | | favorite. They mold to the body to help |
| figure. A custom gown tailored for your | | | | with that perfect fit. Silk is not |
| individual figure always gives you a fit | | | | always affordable so a good quality |
| that is unequaled in a ready-to-wear | | | | polyester is a nice alternative. |
| gown. The proper fitting takes place in | | | | Buy a polyester not an acetate. In my |
| the original pattern work…something | | | | opinion, there is no comparison between |
| you can never achieve with a mass | | | | poly satin, taffeta, crepe, etc. or |
| produced size. | | | | acetate satin, taffeta, crepe, etc. |
| Third is Quality. This is an area where | | | | Years ago acetate was very popular |
| there is no comparison. The gowns sewn | | | | especially with gown manufacturers |
| in Asian factories are simply not made | | | | because it is cheap. Today very few gown |
| to last. If you are looking for an | | | | manufacturers still use it but the major |
| heirloom quality gown that can be | | | | fabric chains still continue to carry it |
| cherished for generations, have it made | | | | heavily. |
| by a qualified dressmaker. | | | | Here are a few reasons why I would never |
| Your wedding gown is a dress that will | | | | spend the time to make a quality gown |
| be worn once but cherished for a | | | | with a cheap acetate. It’s a nightmare |
| lifetime. To me the choice is simple. | | | | to sew on. If you get machine oil or |
| First figure out what looks good on your | | | | anything on the fabric, it will have to |
| body. How many times have you fallen in | | | | be dry-cleaned. It cannot be spotted |
| love with a picture in an ad or with a | | | | without leaving a watermark. It does not |
| dress on a hanger, to then try it on and | | | | press well and if pressed wrong, the |
| find out it is a disaster. The same | | | | crease is permanent. It does not mold to |
| holds true with a wedding gown. | | | | the body and you will never get a |
| Remember, when the going get tough, the | | | | wrinkle free fit. It yellows quickly |
| tough go shopping! Try many styles on so | | | | with age and once dry-cleaned, it loses |
| you can really see the good and the bad. | | | | any body it many have had. (Are you |
| To give you at least some direction, | | | | getting the idea that I don’t like |
| let’s discuss some general style rules | | | | acetate?) I consider it a disposable |
| for different figures. Do keep in mind | | | | fabric. Many people buy it because it is |
| that these are general rules. There are | | | | cheap but don’t let price alone fool |
| always exceptions and personal taste may | | | | you. Make sure if you are price shopping |
| vary. Use the figure style guidelines | | | | that you are comparing apples with |
| below as a direction to start. | | | | apples. Just because both fabrics are a |
| TRIANGLE – also known as the pear | | | | delustered satin does not mean they are |
| shape, you are narrow above the waist | | | | the same. Check fiber content and avoid |
| and heavy below. Your bust is usually | | | | acetate. |
| small, your shoulders are narrow and | | | | Now that I have told you not to use an |
| your waist is defined. | | | | acetate, let me say there are a few |
| Look for gowns that have fitted bodices | | | | exceptions. Never buy any fabric that is |
| with full skirts as they will emphasize | | | | 100% acetate but some acetate blends |
| the waist while de-emphasizing the hips. | | | | such as rayon/acetate blends and |
| Bodices with texture or accented with | | | | brocades are the general exception. |
| lace and beading will create the | | | | What should I use for lining and do I |
| illusion of a fuller upper body. Look | | | | need to line and underline a dress? |
| for gowns with little or no lace on the | | | | Many brides do not understand the |
| skirts and with few gathers. Princess | | | | importance of lining and underlining a |
| skirts would be ideal. Fullness in | | | | gown. It is essential that every gown be |
| sleeves will extend your shoulder line. | | | | fully lined in the bodice. |
| Jewel necklines will add breadth to your | | | | Depending on the weight of your fabric, |
| upper body. | | | | you may even want to fully line the |
| Avoid gowns with high necklines, which | | | | sleeves and skirt. Linings do not have |
| will make the shoulders look narrower. | | | | to be expensive. I line 99% of my |
| Avoid silhouettes that hug the body such | | | | garments with a basic 100% polyester |
| as sheaths or mermaids and avoid skirts | | | | lining such as pongee or coupe de ville |
| that have extra fullness through the | | | | which costs about $3 - $4 yd. Even silk |
| hips, excessive gathers, bustles and | | | | can be lined with this to help keep the |
| bows in back. | | | | cost down. Be sure to never use acetate |
| RECTANGLE- Your body is long and narrow. | | | | lining as it will alter the fit and |
| Your shoulders and hips are very close | | | | drape of your gown fabric. |
| in size with not much of a waist. Look | | | | Lining can greatly alter the color of a |
| for empire waists as they will | | | | garment so make sure you layer the |
| camouflage the waistline and place | | | | fabrics you plan to use to see the |
| emphasis on the bodice and hemlines. | | | | finished color before purchasing. Lining |
| Sleeves with elaborate detailing will | | | | can be a great asset to help you alter |
| broaden the shoulders. Full skirts with | | | | your color slightly, however. I have |
| horizontal detail are best. Use a fabric | | | | often lined ivory garments with white to |
| that holds its shape well such as a silk | | | | keep the ivory lighter or winter white |
| dupioni or taffeta. Bateau necklines | | | | silk with a darker ivory lining to |
| will widen the shoulders. Avoid slim | | | | achieve a little more color. You can |
| silhouettes with vertical styling such | | | | even achieve a very subtle pink or peach |
| as straight gowns. | | | | by lining ivory silk with a pink lining. |
| INVERTED TRIANGLE - When your upper body | | | | If you do plan to change your dress |
| is wider than your lower body. Your | | | | color with lining, however, please make |
| shoulders are broad and your bust is | | | | sure you line every piece from bodice, |
| full with slender legs and hips. Look | | | | sleeves, and skirt, to bows and roses or |
| for gowns with an elongated bodice as | | | | they will not match. Lining can affect |
| they will tend to draw the eye down | | | | the color of bridesmaid’s dresses as |
| lengthening the upper body. Sleeves that | | | | well. |