Plan every detail of your perfect wedding


Everything about your wedding dress

Can I save money making a dress (orare simple with minor gathers and that
having it made) over purchasing onefollow the natural shoulder line are
retail?ideal. Wear simple bodices with accents
It depends. If you are trying to copy ankept to a minimum and with open
expensive designer gown, you will mostnecklines that are not too wide or low.
likely save quite a bit. If you areFull skirts or straight gowns with full
comparing an imported factory gown madetrains will create the appearance of
in Asia, you may not. It will alsomore curves on the lower body. Also look
depend on whether you are paying afor gowns with bustles, bows and other
seamstress or sewing it on your own. Ifadornments. Avoid heavy beading,
you sew it yourself, you can save money.oversized sleeves with elaborate
If you are paying a qualifieddetailing, and empire styles since they
dressmaker, it might cost a little more.will emphasize top heaviness
However, there are several otherHOURGLASS - When your body is
important factors to consider incurvaceous. Your bust and hip
addition to price.measurements are very close but your
First is Style. If you are the type whowaist is noticeably smaller. Often
does not want to look like the hundredsconsidered the ideal figure.
of other brides in the sameLook for basque waistlines or dropped
ready-to-wear gown, then you maywaistlines as they will show waist
consider making or having a dress made.definition. Look for simple classic
Sewing a dress offers you the luxury oflines such as a fitted princess or
designing details to your exact liking.sheath gown. Off-the-shoulder gowns and
You can select the perfect shaped rose;open necklines are great. Avoid heavy
whether a bud or fully open bloom; thebodice and skirt detailing as they can
perfect placement of a lace applique ormake you appear heavier. Also avoid high
trim to accent or camouflage. Making anecklines and empire styling which will
gown creates a one-of-a-kind dress. Evenhide your best features.
though you may be using a commercialere are some tips to use in making
pattern, individual choice in lace,fabric selection.
fabric and detailing indeed create aWhenever possible, buy fabric ROT, that
personal gown for you.means rolled on a tube. If the fabric
Second is fit. Many brides purchase anyou want only comes double and rolled on
expensive ready made designer gown nota bolt, make sure the crease will iron
realizing they will then have to spendout easily.
another small fortune…sometimesNatural fibers will sew and fit like no
hundreds of dollars… in alterationsother fiber. Silk is my
just to get that gown to fit theirfavorite. They mold to the body to help
figure. A custom gown tailored for yourwith that perfect fit. Silk is not
individual figure always gives you a fitalways affordable so a good quality
that is unequaled in a ready-to-wearpolyester is a nice alternative.
gown. The proper fitting takes place inBuy a polyester not an acetate. In my
the original pattern work…somethingopinion, there is no comparison between
you can never achieve with a masspoly satin, taffeta, crepe, etc. or
produced size.acetate satin, taffeta, crepe, etc.
Third is Quality. This is an area whereYears ago acetate was very popular
there is no comparison. The gowns sewnespecially with gown manufacturers
in Asian factories are simply not madebecause it is cheap. Today very few gown
to last. If you are looking for anmanufacturers still use it but the major
heirloom quality gown that can befabric chains still continue to carry it
cherished for generations, have it madeheavily.
by a qualified dressmaker.Here are a few reasons why I would never
Your wedding gown is a dress that willspend the time to make a quality gown
be worn once but cherished for awith a cheap acetate. It’s a nightmare
lifetime. To me the choice is simple.to sew on. If you get machine oil or
First figure out what looks good on youranything on the fabric, it will have to
body. How many times have you fallen inbe dry-cleaned. It cannot be spotted
love with a picture in an ad or with awithout leaving a watermark. It does not
dress on a hanger, to then try it on andpress well and if pressed wrong, the
find out it is a disaster. The samecrease is permanent. It does not mold to
holds true with a wedding gown.the body and you will never get a
Remember, when the going get tough, thewrinkle free fit. It yellows quickly
tough go shopping! Try many styles on sowith age and once dry-cleaned, it loses
you can really see the good and the bad.any body it many have had. (Are you
To give you at least some direction,getting the idea that I don’t like
let’s discuss some general style rulesacetate?) I consider it a disposable
for different figures. Do keep in mindfabric. Many people buy it because it is
that these are general rules. There arecheap but don’t let price alone fool
always exceptions and personal taste mayyou. Make sure if you are price shopping
vary. Use the figure style guidelinesthat you are comparing apples with
below as a direction to start.apples. Just because both fabrics are a
TRIANGLE – also known as the peardelustered satin does not mean they are
shape, you are narrow above the waistthe same. Check fiber content and avoid
and heavy below. Your bust is usuallyacetate.
small, your shoulders are narrow andNow that I have told you not to use an
your waist is defined.acetate, let me say there are a few
Look for gowns that have fitted bodicesexceptions. Never buy any fabric that is
with full skirts as they will emphasize100% acetate but some acetate blends
the waist while de-emphasizing the hips.such as rayon/acetate blends and
Bodices with texture or accented withbrocades are the general exception.
lace and beading will create theWhat should I use for lining and do I
illusion of a fuller upper body. Lookneed to line and underline a dress?
for gowns with little or no lace on theMany brides do not understand the
skirts and with few gathers. Princessimportance of lining and underlining a
skirts would be ideal. Fullness ingown. It is essential that every gown be
sleeves will extend your shoulder line.fully lined in the bodice.
Jewel necklines will add breadth to yourDepending on the weight of your fabric,
upper body.you may even want to fully line the
Avoid gowns with high necklines, whichsleeves and skirt. Linings do not have
will make the shoulders look narrower.to be expensive. I line 99% of my
Avoid silhouettes that hug the body suchgarments with a basic 100% polyester
as sheaths or mermaids and avoid skirtslining such as pongee or coupe de ville
that have extra fullness through thewhich costs about $3 - $4 yd. Even silk
hips, excessive gathers, bustles andcan be lined with this to help keep the
bows in back.cost down. Be sure to never use acetate
RECTANGLE- Your body is long and narrow.lining as it will alter the fit and
Your shoulders and hips are very closedrape of your gown fabric.
in size with not much of a waist. LookLining can greatly alter the color of a
for empire waists as they willgarment so make sure you layer the
camouflage the waistline and placefabrics you plan to use to see the
emphasis on the bodice and hemlines.finished color before purchasing. Lining
Sleeves with elaborate detailing willcan be a great asset to help you alter
broaden the shoulders. Full skirts withyour color slightly, however. I have
horizontal detail are best. Use a fabricoften lined ivory garments with white to
that holds its shape well such as a silkkeep the ivory lighter or winter white
dupioni or taffeta. Bateau necklinessilk with a darker ivory lining to
will widen the shoulders. Avoid slimachieve a little more color. You can
silhouettes with vertical styling sucheven achieve a very subtle pink or peach
as straight gowns.by lining ivory silk with a pink lining.
INVERTED TRIANGLE - When your upper bodyIf you do plan to change your dress
is wider than your lower body. Yourcolor with lining, however, please make
shoulders are broad and your bust issure you line every piece from bodice,
full with slender legs and hips. Looksleeves, and skirt, to bows and roses or
for gowns with an elongated bodice asthey will not match. Lining can affect
they will tend to draw the eye downthe color of bridesmaid’s dresses as
lengthening the upper body. Sleeves thatwell.



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